The Alcazaba Karmia Display Board is the most stunning way for you to display your Infinity army. It comes with 27 bases that slot into the display, including a massive 70mm for the Maghriba Guard TAG. It also includes small drawers in the back for marker storage. This lovely Alcazaba courtyard hails from the Haqqislam planet of Bourak were it's name Karmia means Vineyard.
The Yaogat's Nest consist of two guard towers that make the perfect addition to the Taugak Trench line. They snap in seamlessly with any trench to offer a raised firing position. Details such as the side mounted mine launchers, quick deploy stretchers, and shelving unit add a ton of flavor. Meanwhile the door and removable ladder make for dynamic movement possibilities.
Probably the most versatile piece of scatter terrain we have ever made. The ubiquitous Cosmica Cube offers a myriad of features. A removable door and two removable hatch's make sure that troops can access and move through the cube on either it's inside or outside ladder. When not in use these can slot in to holding positions to be stowed or used as cover or bridges. Stack-able and interchangeable they are perfect addition to a Cosmica Colony or any other table!
This is a guest blog post by the amazing Adam Huenecke
The Warsenal Lo Pan Noodle Hut is one of the most versatile kits in their line of terrain. It would be just as home in any sci-fi or modern table, and it’s designed to easily add lights (always a head-turner on the table).
As I’m gearing up for some upcoming post-apocalyptic games, I wanted to go a slightly more “ruined midcentury modern” look. I’ll walk you through the steps to paint your own (whatever genre you are going for).
I will be using an airbrush, so if you don’t have one of those go get one. I use a simple, inexpensive Paasche model.
Step 1: Planning and Prep
Before you get started, plan how you want to paint your kit. Take a look at the photos on the Warsenal site, and plan the colors you want to use for each area.
PRO TIP: I HIGHLY recommend dry-fitting the entire kit before you prime or paint, so you can get a better idea how the pieces interact with one another. There is no need to add detail to an area you won’t be able to see, and the experience will make it easier for you once you’ve painted everything.
After you pre-plan your colors, you can ‘batch out’ the different color pieces for easier painting.
After I popped out all of my parts, I bundled them based on the colors I wanted to paint them:
PRO TIP: Stick the stool tops to a piece of masking tape so you don’t lose them, and you can paint them more easily. If you count them, you will see I had already lost one before I even got them on the tape (which I didn’t discover until everything was painted, and I had to build a new one). Once they are primed, the tape won’t be sticky on your fingers.
I wanted the roof and walls to be a rusty metal, the walls to be painted metal, and the chairs and details to be a chrome-type color.
Step 2: Priming
I recently switched over to priming everything with an airbrush instead of spray cans. This can be a particularly important method of priming when building tight-fitting parts like you are likely to find in MDF terrain kits. I recommend Stynylrez brand primers- I can’t say enough about how excellent they are. They go on thin, keep detail crisp, are incredibly strong, and take paint incredibly well. Seriously- try them if you haven’t.
I primed all of the parts I planned to paint metallic colors in black, and the clear wall pieces in light grey (as I was going to paint them lighter colors).
Step 3: Base coating
This step is fairly straightforward: I painted each of my batched parts in their respective color. For reference, I used Reaper Blackened Steel for the metal pieces, P3 Cold Steel for the Chrome pieces, P3 Arcane Blue for the Aqua, and P3 Menoth White Highlights for the Cream. I thinned the paints with a bit of water and added a drop of acrylic retarder which helps the paint stay wet just a little longer to reduce airbrush clogs (I use Golden Additives brand, available at most local craft and painting suppliers). Airbrush each piece in a nice, even, thin layer. If you put it on too thick, you will have trouble fitting the pieces together in the end.
Step 4: Highlighting
Next, I wanted to add a bit of depth to my metal pieces. To do this, I took the Chrome color and added some ‘shine’ to them:
For the round pieces, I made some ‘gleaming’ lines radiating from the middle. If you look at the way light hits a record, you can get a good impression of a good pattern. For the squared pieces, I just put a few diagonal shiny lines to give it a bit of gleam.
Step 5: Detailing
Next, add any details that you need to add to the walls. Paint the doors, trim, etc. I used a brush to paint on these details in simple blocked colors. No need to shade anything- we will get to that. I also added a few colored ‘plates’ to the metal areas to make mine look a little more ramshackle.
Step 6: Shading
Using a thinned mixture of black and brown, add shadows and grime in the recesses of your pieces. A little goes a long way, and you can use tape or masks to create your shadows ‘behind’ other areas.
It looks a little rough now, but it will come together. I added some splotches where I will add some chipped paint later.
Step 7: Weathering
This is by far my favorite part. You get to just ruin everything you just did. I used a sponge (the kind most models are packed with) to dab on ‘chipped’ paint in a dark brown. Hit the areas that would see the most wear, and any areas you want heavier weathering. I then took my airbrush and added rust streaks dripping down from the chipped areas.
Step 8: Finishing
I did NOT seal my parts, as I didn’t want to lose any of the metallic colors (avoid this at your own risk- if you are building for a game shop or heavy play, seal your pieces with some Testor’s Dullcoat). I then used a brush to add some final highlights and shadows to my wall pieces, and then assembled everything.
You will notice that I replaced my ads with more post-apocalyptic fare (downloaded from the internet and then patched together in Photoshop). I printed them out to scale, and then used the ads included with the kit as templates to cut new clear acrylic screens. I taped the ads to the back, and then added them like one normally would.
I added cheap lights to my hut, which required some modification (I had to cut a larger area for the battery pack, and drill some holes to run the lights to the second tier).
I assembled everything, and voila!
Warsenal is proud to introduce its newest collection of terrain designed for Infinity the Game: Xǐguǎn, The Spider District.
The smallest of the buildings, the Xǐguǎn Clinic and Xǐguǎn Shop are available individually, or bundled together as a pair as the Xǐguǎn Corner.
Xǐguǎn Office Building is the medium-sized piece, and includes a staircase that is modular with the rest of the sidewalk sections for multiple configurations.
We've combined the above products into a convenient bundle as well, the Yellow Dragon Territory
that includes the Office Building, Clinic and Shop.
The Centerpiece of the collection is the massive
Xǐguǎn Tower! Note that all of the advertisements on the
Xǐguǎn terrain are pre-printed in full color onto acrylic to really make your table pop!
The Stairs that come with the
Office Building are available as a separate product
, and we also have a Bridge
to connect the buildings that serves as an overpass, complete with traffic signals.
All of the sidewalks connect modularly to create and combine into many different configurations so you can build the sci-fi city of your imagination to play Infinity the Game.
It's even easier to get Warsenal products all over the world now, with free Domestic shipping on orders of $150 or more, free shipping to Canada on orders of $200 or more, and free shipping to the rest of the world on orders of $250 or more.
A lot of people ask us how we painted the Cosmica
buildings, so we've cornered Jay who did all that amazing work, and forced him to tell us all of his secrets! Here is a breakdown of the recipes that Jay used to paint the Warsenal Cosmica terrain
The terrain is base-coated using matt enamel. It seals the mdf and provides a good starting point. Many pieces are painted before assembly to make things easier.
All colors are applied with an airbrush, except where noted as stippled on with blister pack foam, and edge highlights are applied with a brush.
- P3 Menoth White Base
- P3 Menoth White Highlight
- White (any brand)
- P3 Cryx Bane Highlight mixed 50/50 w/ Menoth White Base (shadows)
- Vallejo Orange Brown
- Vallejo Cavalry Brown (shadow)
- Vallejo Scrofulous Brown (highlight)
- Vallejo Ice Yellow mixed in with Scrofulous Brown (edge highlight)
(The next three colors are stippled on with blister foam):
- Black (any brand)
- P3 Cryx Bane Highlight
- Vallejo Light Grey
- Black (any brand) (shadow)
- Vallejo Light Grey (as a Highlight, sparingly- then as line highlight)
- GW Agrax Earthshade (sprayed via airbrush to darken spots)
- 50/50 Vallejo Orange Brown and Cavalry Brown (sprayed as rust spots)
- Umber Brown (Jay used an oil paint for this step but a P3 Umbral Umber works fine to, applied with blister foam as rust.)
There you have it! We'd love to see your painted versions of Warsenal Cosmica Colony terrain!
New Limited Edition Unit Markers are up in the Warsenal Store for the Infinity the Game April Releases!
This month features the new Imperial Service Starter Box, so we have 25mm tokens for the Celestial Guard, Imperial Agent: Crane Rank, Imperial Agent: Pheasant Rank, and the Zhànying Imperial Agents.
The Maghariba Guard gets 25mm tokens and the Nomads Reverend Healer gets a Blast Template.
Act fast, as once the month is over, these tokens and templates will be gone for good!
We are proud to unveil the second set of releases for the Cosmica Colony line of terrain for Infinity The Game!
The Cosmica Water Storage Building is based on the longer Gamma Frame.
And of course, the Water Storage Facade is available separately, with or without interior pipes for extra detail.
The Cosmica Small Hallway Building is just like its big brother, but based on the smaller Zeta Frame.
The Small Hallway Facades are also available separately.
Also based on the Zeta Frame, we have the new Cosmica Coolant Building and Cosmica Fuel Building.
And of course, their facades available individually.
The new Interior Doors allow you to connect several Cosmica buildings together end-to-end.
The Access Panel is an exterior door for planets where the Cosmica airlock is not necessary. The Second Story Access Panel is specifically designed to be used on upper floors, where it can open onto the Cosmica Roof.
All of these fantastic new elements can be combined with the existing Cosmica Colony range for maximum modularity and detail! Find them all in the Warsenal Store.